Colombo, Ella, Nuwara Eliya, and Kandy

So close yet so far was my journey with Sri Lanka which has been on my travel radar for many years now. I finally got the chance to explore its lush landscapes, rich history, and vibrant culture on a recent trip. It was an unforgettable journey, filled with scenic train rides, misty mountains, and ancient temples.

This trip was a perfect blend of city life, natural beauty, and cultural experiences. I was travelling with my husband and here’s a breakdown of how we spent six days soaking in a glimpse of what the stunning country has to offer..

TRIP ITINERARY

6 days, 5 nights

• Colombo – 1 Day
• Ella – 2 Days
• Nuwara Eliya – 1 Day
• Kandy – 1 Day

COLOMBO

Our adventure kicked off in Colombo, the bustling capital city of Sri Lanka. Colombo is a city of contrasts—modern skyscrapers sit alongside colonial-era buildings, and the chaotic streets are filled with tuk-tuks, street vendors, and the scent of exotic spices.

PLACES TO STAY

• Radisson Hotel, Colombo: Our stay- Fantastic views, very central and great breakfast!
• The Galle Face Hotel – A colonial-style hotel right on the beachfront, with stunning views of the Indian Ocean
• De Saram House by Geoffrey Bawa- Designed by an iconic architect
• Taprobane House

EATING HIGHLIGHTS

• Ministry of Crab – A must-visit for seafood lovers, serving up the freshest crab in the most delicious ways
• Upali’s by Nawaloka – Authentic Sri Lankan cuisine in a laid-back setting
• Café Kumbuk – A cozy spot for a quick coffee and healthy bites
• Ceylon Curry Club– Great place to try Sri Lankan curries

CITIES AND ACTIVITIES AROUND

• Gangaramaya Temple – A blend of modern architecture and cultural essence
• Dutch Hospital – Shopping Precinct- Heritage building lined with café, restaurants and shops
• Pettah Market – For those who love bargaining and local street markets

ELLA

After a quick stint in Colombo, we headed to Ella, a small town nestled in the highlands of Sri Lanka. The journey to Ella is a highlight in itself—considered one of the most scenic train rides in the world, it offers breathtaking views of rolling tea plantations, waterfalls, and misty mountains. However, since the schedule of the train did not work for us we decided to take a car/taxi ride from Colombo to Ella. The journey is around 6-8 hours depending on the time of the day and number of pitstops. The route is very scenic and crosses through many small cities and villages. We enjoyed the ride with lunch at Rest House Avissawella and dessert at Olive leisure in Haputale. There are multiple Olive Café’s only in Haputale, definitely stop by if you are in the area. The food looked great, we however did not get a chance to try but the dairy products- hot chocolate, cheese cake etc are fantastic and a lot of them have great views!

PLACES TO STAY

• Our stay: Ella Hillsite View– 2 rooms rustic stay with beautiful views very close to the city centre which makes it convenient to walk for meals but a little away on a steep climb making it peaceful in spite of the proximity to the city centre. Ella city centre can get extremely loud so we preferred this option. The host Chatu and his wife are a wonderful Sinhalese couple. Chatu is also an ex-chef so the meals are fantastic.
• 98 Acres Resort & Spa – A luxurious eco-friendly resort with incredible views of Ella Rock.
• Saffron Eco Cottage– In the middle of the forest with amazing views
• More mid-budget options:
  • Ella Jungle Resort – Stay in the heart of the forest
  • The View Ella – A boutique hotel with panoramic vistas
  • The Spice Lodge – Short walk to Little Adam’s Peak and Ella’s city centre

EATING HIGHLIGHTS

• Matey Hut – For a more local experience, try the traditional rice and curry
• AK Ristoro – A mix of Italian and Sri Lankan cuisine in a charming setting
• Isle of Gelato– Amazing gelato in middle of the city centre

ACTIVITIES AROUND

• Little Adam’s Peak – A short hike that rewards you with stunning views of the surrounding landscape
• Nine Arch Bridge – An iconic bridge surrounded by lush greenery, best viewed when a train passes by but you can book tickets for the 10 mins train ride that crosses the bridge as well
• Halpewatte Tea Factory– Tea factory your, beautiful viewpoint, café offers great tea selection to try with an even wider selection to purchase at their shop
• Waterfalls- Ravana waterfall, Kuda Ravana, Kital Ella waterfall, Dunhinda Falls (1 hour by road from Ella- we could not go in this trip as we had very limited time but it is supposed to be very beautiful and recommended)

NUWARA ELIYA

We decided to experience the truly magical Sri Lankan train ride on our journey downhill from Ella to Nuwara Eliya- this stretch is considered one of the most scenic routes in the world! Known as ‘Little England’, Nuwara Eliya offers a cool escape from the tropical heat. It has unique micro climate so you might stumble upon areas with bright sunshine just a short distance away from rainy patches. With its colonial-era buildings, manicured gardens, and endless tea plantations, be ready to be enchanted by the old world charm. We took a train from Ella to Nuwara Eliya and the journey truly is one of the most spectacular experiences you can have- circling through the hills and villages with lush green forests all around as you marvel at the waterfalls at a distance wondering how unreal it all seems!

PLACES TO STAY

• I do not recommend our stay so will leave the name out
• Heritance Tea Factory – A former tea factory turned hotel, offering a unique experience
• The Grand Hotel – Classic colonial charm in the heart of the town
• The Bellwood Manor – Nuwara Eliya’s premier luxury all-inclusive hotel
• More mid-budget options:
  • La Luna Cabins – Unique stay overlooking the tea gardens, 10 mins tuk tuk ride from the city centre
  • The Hill Town Cottage – Peaceful location close to town

EATING HIGHLIGHTS

• Themparadu– Live music, open air, amazing food and drinks
• The Hill Club – A step back in time with its old-world dining experience.
• Mackwoods Labookellie Tea Centre – Enjoy a cup of Ceylon tea while taking in the scenic views.
• Chill Café, Ramboda– Beautiful view
• City Food Centre– Very local Sri Lankan style buffet lunch

ACTIVITIES AROUND

Highly recommend doing a Tuk Tuk tour. We lucked out on finding a great Tuk Tuk guide- Sri Lanka Kips Drivers right outside the train station who is a Nuwara Eliya local and knows the city extremely well. He was very polite, patient and his knowledge of the city helped us to plan the sight-seeing basis our preferences since we had only limited time.

• Central Market – Local market in the city center
• Ramboda Falls – Beautiful falls with a short hike
• Lover’s Leap Waterfall
• Pedro Estate
• Horton Plains National Park – A trek to World’s End, where the cliff drops dramatically.
• Gregory Lake – A peaceful spot for boating or a leisurely stroll.

KANDY

The last stop on our Sri Lankan adventure was Kandy, the cultural heart of the island. We booked a taxi ride from Nuwara Eliya to Kandy. Surrounded by mountains and lush forests, Kandy is home to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, one of the most important Buddhist sites in the world. We also happened to be at the city at the time of the famous Perahera festival. The Kandy Esala Perahera, also called the Festival of the Tooth, is an annual religious and cultural procession held in July/August to honour the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha, enshrined at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. Kandy gets genuinely packed during Perahera. Book your stay well in advance and factor in that getting anywhere will take twice as long as a lot of the roads are blocked.

PLACES TO STAY

• Our stay: SWP Eco Lodge– Beautiful rooms especially the ones overlooking the lake and Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. Great central location to walk everywhere especially during Perahera
• Earl’s Regency Hotel – Nestled in the hills with sweeping views of the Mahaweli River
• More mid-budget option:
  • Theva Residency – A boutique hotel with a homely atmosphere.

EATING HIGHLIGHTS

• The Empire Café – A trendy spot in a colonial building, perfect for a coffee break.
• Kandyan Arts Residency – Traditional Sri Lankan food with a view of the city.
• Balaji Dosai – A vegetarian delight offering delicious dosas and South Indian dishes.

ACTIVITIES AROUND

• Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic – A spiritual experience in a beautiful setting.
• Peradeniya Botanical Gardens – A peaceful escape with an impressive collection of flora.
• Kandy Lake – Ideal for an evening stroll
• Kandy Spice Walk/ Kandy Herbal Point- We were recommended this place by our Tuk Tuk rider. We enjoyed the informative walk, however, do not feel pressurised to make a purchase

PS’s Pro Tip

Book your train trip early (online booking) especially in peak dry season from December to March. Consider booking uphill to downhill (Ella towards Colombo) which sometimes is lesser crowded then uphill (Colombo towards Ella). Also, consider travelling in shoulder or rainy season for lesser crowds and better pricing and options for hotel stay.

Sri Lanka truly offers a diverse range of experiences, from its vibrant cities to its serene hill country. Six days felt like a teaser, leaving me yearning for more of its warmth, beauty, and hospitality. Hopefully I will be back soon to explore the southern coast and write about it soon!

NOTE: This trip was in August’24